Alapaha Blue-Blood Bulldog
American Molosser Association
Alapaha Blue-Blood Bulldog Standard
Recognized by the AMA in 2017
Background: The Alapaha Blue-Blood Bulldog was developed in the southern United States during the late 18th Century. The breed originates from a Bulldog and crosses with such breeds as the Catahoula Leopard Dog and Black Mouth Cur. It was originally bred for the purpose of coursing and catching wild and unruly cattle. They later established themselves on farms and plantations as a farm utility dog. The Alapaha Blue-Blood Bulldog is a functional and unexaggerated bulldog that are devoted family companions.
General Appearance: The Alapaha Blue-Blood Bulldog is a medium size dog that is stocky, with a square head, broad chest and prominent muzzle. They move with power and determination and are bold and fearless. The Alapaha Blue-Blood Bulldog is white with varying amounts of any shade of merle, brindle, blue, black, chocolate, red, fawn, seal, or tri-colored.
Disqualifications: unilateral or bilateral cryptorchidism
Disposition: They are alert, outgoing with a self-assured attitude. The Alapaha Blue-Blood Bulldog is bold and fearless without being hostile or overly aggressive. Some aloofness with strangers and assertiveness toward other dogs is not considered a fault.
Disqualifications: viciousness or extreme shyness
Size: The height and weight should be balanced and proportional.
Males: 20-24 inches tall at the withers and 70-90lbs.
Females: 18-22 inches tall at the withers and 55-75lbs.
Head: Boxed shaped with muscular cheeks. The head is medium in length and broad across the skull. The top of the skull is flat. There is a distinct furrow between the eyes with a deep stop.
Eyes: Medium in size and of any color. The haw should not be visible. Full pigmented eye rims preferred.
Cosmetic faults: pink eye rims
Disqualifications: crossed eyes, divergent strabismus (wall-eyed)
Muzzle/Bite: Medium length (2 to 4 in.), square and broad with a strong wide underjaw. Lips should be full but not pendulous. A definite undershot bite ranging from 1/8-1/4 inch preferred.
Serious faults: pendulous lips, muzzle under 2 inches or over 4 inches
Disqualifications: wry mouth, scissor or even bite
Nose: Black or liver with no preference. The nares should be large and open.
Serious faults: Pinched nares, lacking pigmentation
Ears: The ears are small V-shaped, or folded back. They are wide and high set on the head and level with the occiput. When alert the ears should be level with the eye.
Cosmetic faults: rose ears
Disqualifications: cropped ears, unilateral or bilateral deafness
Neck: Muscular, medium in length, slightly arched, tapering from shoulders to head with a slight dewlap allowed.
Serious faults: necks that are short, long or thin
Shoulders: Very muscular with wide sloping blades. The shoulders set so elbows are not angled out. The shoulders should be moderately laid back with the upper arm and shoulder blade roughly the same length.
Serious faults: shoulders that are too steep without a lay back
Chest, Back and Loin: The chest should be deep and moderately wide without being excessively wide as to throw the shoulders out. The back should be short in length, strong and broad. Loins should be slightly tucked which corresponds to a slight roach in the back which slopes to the croup.
Serious faults: sway back, narrow or shallow chest, lack of tuck up, excessive roach
Hindquarters: Broad, well-muscled, straight and parallel when viewed from the rear and in proportion to the shoulders. The hindquarters should have moderate angulation.
Serious faults: narrow hips, cow hocked, sickled hocked, twisted hocked, under angulation, over angulation
Legs: Strong and straight with heavy bone. Front legs should not set too close together or too far apart. Rear legs should have a visible angulation of the stifle joint.
Serious faults: in at the elbows, excessively bowlegged, fiddle chested
Feet: Toes are of medium size and length, well arched and close together, not splayed. Pasterns should be strong, straight and upright.
Serious faults: hare foot, paper foot, splayed foot, crocked toes
Tail: The tail should be thick at the root, tapering to a point to the top of the hock. Tail should not curl over back.
Serious faults: kinked tail
Disqualifications: screw tail, docked tail
Coat: Short, close, stiff to the touch, not long and/or fuzzy with no feathering.
Disqualifications: a coat longer than ½ inch
Color: At least fifty percent white with patches is preferred. Patches may be any shade of merle, brindle, blue, black, chocolate, red, fawn, seal, or tri-colored.
Movement: The gait is balanced and smooth, powerful and unhindered suggesting agility with ease. The gait should show driving action in the hind quarters with corresponding reach in front. As speed increases the feet move toward the center line of the body to maintain balance. Ideally the dog should single-track. The top line remains firm and level, parallel to the line of motion. Head and tail carriage should reflect that of a proud, confident and alert animal. Movement faults: Any suggestion of clumsiness, crossing or interference of front or rear legs, short or stilted steps, twisting joints, pacing, paddling, or weaving. Similar movement faults are to be penalized according to the degree to which they interfere with the ability of the dog to work.
-Unilateral or bilateral cryptorchidism
-Viciousness or extreme shyness
-Divergent strabismus (Wall-Eyed)
-Scissor or even bite
-Unilateral or bilateral deafness
-A coat longer than ½ inch
A cosmetic fault is one of a minor nature. A fault not specified as cosmetic has to do with structure as it relates to a working dog. In a show or other evaluation, the dog is to be penalized in direct proportion to the degree of the fault. Any fault, which is extreme, should be considered a serious fault and should be penalized appropriately.
American Molosser Association © 2013